Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and visitors equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it joins a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city is no surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has consistently shaped its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known gems that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and involved. The vendor beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but note that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will inspire more people around the world to discover these tales and travel to the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
