🔗 Share this article

Whenever curating a roll of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate familiar award-winning venues. However, nestled high among these food giants is a simple salonu located in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. This recognition has left the family completely surprised.

“I’m completely astonished,” remarks a family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that led to their small shop earning such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the cuisine, and this establishment definitely delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, toastier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.